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DUK10100665_014
STUDIO - Restaurant Gazelle in London - Chef Rob Roy Cameron
A general view of Gazelle in central London. Chef Rob Roy Cameron was born not in Bonny Scotland as you might suppose but in Botswana, where gazelles are presumably a familiar presence. He honed his kitchen craft with brothers Ferran and Albert Adrià in Spain, opening the latter’s 41 Degrees in Barcelona and two years later leading the brigade at Mexican-inspired Hoja Santa. In London he has teamed up with cocktail maestro Tony Conigliaro. At Untitled, in Kingsland Road, E8, in surroundings referencing Billy Name’s design for Andy Warhol’s Factory, the à la carte menu reveals a well-defined Japanese influence and the offer of all 10 savoury courses served for £26.25 (£52.50 for two strongly recommended) is, to my mind, one of London’s bounties. A gazelle is fleet of foot and moves swiftly. The leap from Dalston to deepest Mayfair should be smooth but the stated aim “to put guests in control of how they dine” results in a kind of formlessness that afflicts a lot of modern dining, arguably never more so than here. We get off to a static start. The private lift installed to give customers the sensation of accessing a private club whether at first-floor restaurant level or second-floor bar is out of order on both visits. But the welcome is warm and walking up the stairs no hardship.
© Daniel Hambury/ Evening Standard / eyevine
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