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DUKAS_131991558_EYE
The £3 chicken: how much should we actually be paying for the nation’s favourite meat? Fifty years ago, a medium broiler cost the equivalent of £11 today. Now it is less than a latte or a pint of beer, raising serious ethical and environmental question
A giant metal shed in Somerset is alive with the chirps of more than 17,000 three-day-old chicks. The yellow balls of fluff are still adjusting to their new home. When one breaks into a run, dozens more follow. They move like leaves blown around a town square. “They’re not all named!” says Simon Barton, raising his voice above the din. Chicks climb over our boots, pecking at everything in search of food. We shuffle rather than walk lest we squash one. Barton, a former TV engineer, quit the BBC 25 years ago to move here with his wife, Karen, a nurse. The couple took over and grew Karen’s father’s chicken farm not far from the Quantock Hills. They now produce more than a million birds a year. The chicks arrived two days ago in a lorry from a huge hatchery. In the next six or seven weeks, they will multiply in weight 45 times to reach their target of 2.4kg (5lb 5oz). The broilers, as meat chickens are known (“layers” lay eggs), will then be trucked to a poultry processor and on to customers including Sainsbury’s. Right now Barton has 197,000 chicks across several sheds. The one I’m in is the length of a jumbo jet. It sounds like a lot of birds. It looks like a lot. Yet in the UK we eat 17,000 chickens – the number I’m looking at in this one shed – every nine minutes. We consume more than 1bn broilers a year. Later, sitting in his modest home office, Barton looks at the Sainsbury’s prices for whole chickens like his. “So, they do a medium bird for £3.50,” he says, running a finger over a page in his diary, where he occasionally scribbles numbers from supermarket websites. He looks up at me. “That’s the price of a latte.”
Chicken farmer Simon Barton, pictured in one of his sheds with chicks, Somerset.
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DUKAS_131991570_EYE
The £3 chicken: how much should we actually be paying for the nation’s favourite meat? Fifty years ago, a medium broiler cost the equivalent of £11 today. Now it is less than a latte or a pint of beer, raising serious ethical and environmental question
A giant metal shed in Somerset is alive with the chirps of more than 17,000 three-day-old chicks. The yellow balls of fluff are still adjusting to their new home. When one breaks into a run, dozens more follow. They move like leaves blown around a town square. “They’re not all named!” says Simon Barton, raising his voice above the din. Chicks climb over our boots, pecking at everything in search of food. We shuffle rather than walk lest we squash one. Barton, a former TV engineer, quit the BBC 25 years ago to move here with his wife, Karen, a nurse. The couple took over and grew Karen’s father’s chicken farm not far from the Quantock Hills. They now produce more than a million birds a year. The chicks arrived two days ago in a lorry from a huge hatchery. In the next six or seven weeks, they will multiply in weight 45 times to reach their target of 2.4kg (5lb 5oz). The broilers, as meat chickens are known (“layers” lay eggs), will then be trucked to a poultry processor and on to customers including Sainsbury’s. Right now Barton has 197,000 chicks across several sheds. The one I’m in is the length of a jumbo jet. It sounds like a lot of birds. It looks like a lot. Yet in the UK we eat 17,000 chickens – the number I’m looking at in this one shed – every nine minutes. We consume more than 1bn broilers a year. Later, sitting in his modest home office, Barton looks at the Sainsbury’s prices for whole chickens like his. “So, they do a medium bird for £3.50,” he says, running a finger over a page in his diary, where he occasionally scribbles numbers from supermarket websites. He looks up at me. “That’s the price of a latte.”
Chicken farmer Simon Barton, pictured in one of his sheds with chicks, Somerset.
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DUKAS_131695327_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695355_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695356_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695354_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695351_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695350_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695348_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695325_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695349_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695347_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695352_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695328_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695346_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire. factory, foreign workers,
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DUKAS_131695345_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695326_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire. factory, foreign workers,
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DUKAS_131695344_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695343_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695342_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695340_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695341_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695338_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Poultry processing workers at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire. factory, foreign workers,
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DUKAS_131695339_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695336_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_131695337_EYE
UK struggle to get the Christmas turkey to the table Poultry farmers and meat processors have struggled to cope due to Covid- and Brexit-induced staff shortages. But help may soon be at hand
Turkey supply chain crisis. Michael Bailey at Bailey Turkeys based in Knutsford, Cheshire.
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DUKAS_128046829_EYE
Sidechick
A general view of Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_128046828_EYE
Sidechick
A general view of Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
© Daniel Hambury / Evening Standard / eyevine
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DUKAS_128046827_EYE
Sidechick
Aubergine with tomato compote, labneh, breadcrumbs at Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_128046813_EYE
Sidechick
Half chicken Zatar with potatoes at Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_128046812_EYE
Sidechick
Hispi cabbage at Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_128046811_EYE
Sidechick
Broad been flat bread with ricotta and chilli at Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_128046810_EYE
Sidechick
A general view of Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_128046809_EYE
Sidechick
Ortiz anchovies and plain flat bread at Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_128046808_EYE
Sidechick
Ortiz anchovies and plain flat bread at Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
© Daniel Hambury / Evening Standard / eyevine
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DUKAS_128046807_EYE
Sidechick
A general view of Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_128046806_EYE
Sidechick
A general view of Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
© Daniel Hambury / Evening Standard / eyevine
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DUKAS_128046805_EYE
Sidechick
Half chicken Zatar with potatoes at Sidechick. 56 James St, London. W1. A restaurant focusing on roast chicken, seasonal vegetables and salads, alongside natural wines and great cocktails.
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DUKAS_125921218_EYE
“The Garden of Happiness” founded in the Bronx by Karen Washington.
ÒThe Garden of HappinessÓ founded in the Bronx by Karen Washington, gardener, community organiser and food justice activist. 05/11/21,Bronx, NY.
Ali Smith for The Guardian
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DUKAS_125921215_EYE
“The Garden of Happiness” founded in the Bronx by Karen Washington.
ÒThe Garden of HappinessÓ founded in the Bronx by Karen Washington, gardener, community organiser and food justice activist. 05/11/21,Bronx, NY.
Ali Smith for The Guardian
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DUKAS_104753115_TOP
Mono Neg
School for Butlers .
Mr Samuel Bretson, one of Britain's best-known butlers, is at work training the nation's servants to do their duties efficiently. He ensures that the flow of "gentlemen's gentlemen" and perfect housemaids is kept up.
Mr Bretson demonstrating to students how to carve various joints of fowl at the table.
1950 (FOTO:DUKAS/TOPFOTO)
DUKAS/TOPFOTO -
DUKAS_123960905_RHA
A barbecue meat stall at the Indy market in Phuket old town, Phuket, Thailand, Southeast Asia, Asia
A barbecue meat stall at the Indy market in Phuket old town, Phuket, Thailand, Southeast Asia, Asia
Chris Mouyiaris -
DUKAS_92934724_PPR
Chicken Alfredo, One Pot Pasta with Chicken
Chicken Alfredo, One Pot Pasta with Chicken, *** Local Caption *** 00612067 -
DUKAS_93179441_PPR
Kartoffel-Ragout und Hähnchenspieße, Potato Ragout and Chicken Skewer
Kartoffel-Ragout und Hähnchenspieße, Potato Ragout and Chicken Skewer *** Local Caption *** 00627046 -
DUKAS_92937984_PPR
Zitronensuppe mit Huhn, Lemon Soup with Chicken
Zitronensuppe mit Huhn, Lemon Soup with Chicken, *** Local Caption *** 00624090 -
DUKAS_92937703_PPR
Hühnchen-Tajine, Chicken Tajine
Hühnchen-Tajine, Chicken Tajine *** Local Caption *** 00623796 -
DUKAS_92937155_PPR
Hähnchenschnitzel mit Oliven-Knusper-Kruste, Chicken Schnitzel with Olives
Hähnchenschnitzel mit Oliven-Knusper-Kruste, Chicken Schnitzel with Olives *** Local Caption *** 00621232 -
DUKAS_92936338_PPR
Step 2, Gefüllte Putenbrust, Step 2, Stuffed Turkey Breast, Cutting the other Side
Step 2, Gefüllte Putenbrust, Step 2, Stuffed Turkey Breast, Cutting the other Side, *** Local Caption *** 00616811 -
DUKAS_92936313_PPR
Step 6, Gefüllte Putenbrust, Step 6, Stuffed Turkey Breast, Turning
Step 6, Gefüllte Putenbrust, Step 6, Stuffed Turkey Breast, Turning, *** Local Caption *** 00616803 -
DUKAS_92936308_PPR
Step 5, Gefüllte Putenbrust, Step 5, Stuffed Turkey Breast, Roasting
Step 5, Gefüllte Putenbrust, Step 5, Stuffed Turkey Breast, Roasting, *** Local Caption *** 00616801